Surviving the Road to Hana

The Road to Hana aka Hwy 360 is a 55 mile stretch of road that is literally carved into the mountainside though a lush rain forest on the Eastern coastline of Maui.  It has 620 curves and 59 bridges.  The bridges allow two way traffic but are only wide enough for one lane of road.  It is narrow, curvy, sometimes blind and it goes on like that for hours.  I read that driving the Road to Hana will either be the best day of your vacation or the worst and I totally believe it.

I read way too many reviews so I was really nervous about us doing this on our own.  Motion sickness.  One way streets and windy roads with a drop off down a mountain on one side.  Crazy drivers and locals who won't slow down.  Rental car contract violations.  Some people said, they saw a lot of close calls, it was awful, scary and they would never ever do it again.  Other people said it wasn't so bad.  The guy running our hotel orientation scared me even more.  He said we'd spend $70 bucks on gas, it was a huge risk and we should leave it to the experts.  I had visions of us tumbling down the side of a mountain in a horrible roll over crash.  The tours were going for $125 plus per person which is really expensive for something we could do on our own.  That's part of why we wanted a rental car.  Mj left the decision up to me but he was pretty confident he would have no problem. I should never have doubted him.

Hana itself is unremarkable.  I barely even realized we were there.  The Road to Hana is all about the journey and oh my gosh it was so freaking amazing!!!  In my book it was the best day of our vacation and if you go to Maui you HAVE GOT to experience this.  Here are some tips.


Drive yourself vs GuidedTour 
If you or your travel partner is a confident competent driver the road to Hana is totally doable.  If not, then forget it because it's a really intense drive.  I tend to be a timid anxious driver.  I probably would have gotten us killed or at the very least suffered a nervous breakdown but Mj handled it like a champ.  All the bridges allow two way traffic but are only one lane.  There are yield signs before each bridge.  Everyone is supposed to take their turn crossing it with opposing traffic.  There are blind curves and narrow roads the entire way but he drove slow and paid attention and he did well.  I don't think I saw any stretch of road that was right next to the side of the mountain without a guardrail.  Guided tours are so structured.  We like the freedom to stop when we want and spend as much time as we want on each stop.  It was comforting to see the tour buses along the way.  It let us know that we were on track time wise but they stopped at more places then we would have wanted to and didn't stay long enough at others.  I was most looking forward to Pipiwai trail and we would not have had time to do that stop the way we wanted to if we had been on a tour.  He didn't say it but I think he really wanted the opportunity to handle a drive like that.  It's pretty cool to be able to say you did it.  Be sure to gas up in Paia if you are low on gas because it's the last chance until you come back.  It only took a little over 1/4 tank of gas in our Altima.
 
close call:  tour bus vs car

Buy the Gypsy Guide
We decided not to do a guided tour but I didn't want to do this thing blindly.  If we were going to do this on our own I wanted to do it right.  We needed some guidance.  I read about the Gypsy Guide on Trip Advisor.  It's available for iPhone and Android and is only $5 in the app store. Once you download it to your phone no cell service is required and it's GPS based so as you drive along the narrator knows exactly where you are, gives you suggestions for places to stop and guides you along the way.  On the way back it provides a lot of Hawaii history that was great for keeping us occupied on the long drive home.  It was perfect!  The guy has a really nice voice too.  It totally enhanced our experience and was so helpful.  Make sure you have a car charger to keep it going.  There are free Maui guides all over and one of them will have Hana information in it.  Bring that along too.

Leave Early
Driving the Road to Hana is an all day thing because you don't just drive there and drive back.  Well, you could but you would miss out on so much.  Hana itself is a typical small town in Maui but the journey along the way is what makes it such an adventure.  You don't want to rush and you also don't want to be stuck driving those crazy roads in the dark the whole way back.  We found out that the tour buses leave at 6:15 so that was our goal.  We set our alarm for 5:45 am and left the hotel by 6:25 am.  Paia is the city that leads to the Road to Hana and it took us 45 minutes to get there from our hotel in Lahaina.  Once you hit those narrow one lane roads you can't drive any faster then about 20-40 miles max the whole way.  With stops it took us a total of 7 hours to get from Lahaina to Haleakala National Park which was our last stop.  We didn't leave Haleakala until 4:30 pm so that was 10 hours spent on the way there. On the way back we hit Paia at 7:00 pm so that was 2 1/2 hours from Haleakala to Paia and then another 45 minutes to Lahaina.  So without stops the drive back was 3 hours and 15 minutes.  All together it was a 13 hour excursion for us.  It's basically a rain forest with a road in he middle of it.  There are no street lights.  It gets pitch black after the sun sets so we did get caught in the dark but only towards the end of the drive. It was the only day we had to use an alarm clock.  I cannot believe we were up by 7am and moving constantly every single day we were in Europe.  I don't know how we did it. I could barely keep my eyes open on the way home I was so tired.  I read on Trip Advisor that a lot of people rent a hotel room and stay in Hana for the night.

Plan Your Stops
You may not have time to stop at every look out spot so decide what you HAVE to see and plan around that.  I had my eye on Pipiwai Trail and the bamboo forest. It's a 4 mile round trip hike and it's the very last stop so we needed to leave plenty of time for it.  We didn't stop everywhere the Gypsy App suggested and I don't know what we missed out on but the four we did were AMAZING!  We did Twin falls, Three bears, Waianapanapa Park including Black Sand Beach and Haleakala National Park including Pipiwai Trail, Waimoku Falls, and the Seven Sacred Pools.  There was a $10 fee per car for Haleakala. 

Bring food AND bug spray
It's a really long day so you will need to eat at some point.  We stopped for McDonald's Egg White Delight Sandwiches for breakfast on the way in.  Along the way there are plenty of roadside stands to stop for food  but I was glad that we didn't have to.  It saved us time.  We picked up Subway the night before and stopped at Hana Bay to eat it on the way there.  Most of the shops and little highway stands close at 5pm so stop for something early in the drive back if you are hungry.  The mosquito's were all over Pipiwai trail.  I got about 8 on one leg alone.  The sad thing is that we took the time to pick up bug spray but then never put it on.  You need it.  And bring it with you so you can re apply after swimming.

Wear a bathing suit AND real shoes
The trails we climbed were pretty rigorous and muddy.  You need comfortable shoes.  Ones you can get dirty in.  Some of the trails led right through streams where you literally had to hop from rock to rock to get to the other side.  At Three Bears I miscalculated and my right foot sock, tennis shoe and all went in the water.  At Seven Sisters it was the left.  Don't think that you are better off without the wet socks.  Trust me you aren't.  Wet socks inside wet tennis shoes is way better then bare foot in wet shoe.  Aqua socks would have been perfect to carry along and waterproof hiking boots would have been ideal.  We did our first stop with flip flops and that was pushing it.  We saw people doing Pipiwei in flip flops and I don't know how they made it.  The tennis shoes I brought were my older back up set and I literally threw them in the trash at our last stop.  Mj planned on keeping his but after zip lining AND Hana he ended up trashing his too.  If you want to experience swimming in a waterfall and trust me, you do, wear a bathing suit under your clothes.  There are signs warning of flash floods but none telling you that you can't get in.  We each carried really light nylon backpacks with us.  The camera mostly stayed around our necks.

Drive back the way you came
Apparently, if you continue forward after Haleakala National Park and leave that way making a full circle instead of leaving the way you came there are some interesting sights.  If you do that you are taking a huge risk because the roads are really bad, there is no cell reception and if you get stuck out there you are on your own.  The Gypsy narrator explicitly advises you that if you go that way the Gypsy tour is over.  It's so risky that  it invalidates your rental contract if you break down or cause damage to the car out there.  I  didn't even bother to check ours.  Even if we wanted to we were running out of time.  I already knew it was a risk we didn't want to take.  We took the longer and relatively safer way back. 


My next post will be about the four AMAZING stops we did.  I meant to fit Hana into one post but I just couldn't do it!

The Road to Hana Sights

Not as Scary as it Looks

It was his idea to go zip lining.  I didn't really know what it was.  When he first mentioned it I was thinking it was something like bungee jumping and I said no way.  I've been sky diving before but I honestly don't know if I can ever do anything like that ever again.   It was that scary. 

We made reservations with Sky-Line Eco Adventures, Maui.  It got good reviews on Trip Advisor and it was only a few miles from our hotel.  The office is located in a strip mall.  We had to sign the pre-requisite form that I didn't actually read but I'm assuming said something like if you die or become seriously injured it's not our fault and you can't sue us.  We were all given cool water bottles which I thought was a nice touch. 

We were handed helmets as we piled into a van and took an extremely bumpy ride to the zip-line site.  So bumpy I was launched into the air a few times and bounced my head off the top of the van.  That only happened once.  Now I know why they gave us helmets for the drive. There were 2 cool guides and they were both cracking jokes the whole time.  After we got out of the van we were lead over to a covered area where we were given our gear.  We had to put on these heavy duty vinyl straps and told to clip our water bottle to it.  We each got this pretty heavy silver thing that turned out to be the piece of metal that holds us to the zip- line.  They set out  a giant rubber-maid bin for us to place our belongings in and it was locked with a padlock for safe keeping.  They also provided fanny packs if you had items you wanted to carry while zip-lining.  Our DLSR camera went around our neck and it wasn't a problem while zip-lining. 



We walked to the first of 8 lines.  I was really nervous.  I had the same kind of out of body experience that I had when I went sky diving where I knew I was there and that I was doing it but didn't really believe it and was kind of wishing I could back out.  By that time there are no refunds. I wasn't wasting my money so there was no turning back.  The guide explained where to put our hands and told us step by step what to do.  One by one each person zipped across.  Mj went before me.  He wasn't scared at all.  I went dead last getting more and more nervous as it got closer to my turn.  When it was my turn oddly enough I still didn't really believe I was about to jump off even as he grabbed the silver thing from me and started to hook me up.  Basically, you walk down a set of stairs to nowhere and when your feet leave the ground you are zip-lining through the air.  That's it.


Half way through we stopped for a snack that they provided and there was a bathroom stop.  They gave us a chance to take pictures and took pictures for us.  There was some hiking in between each jump site but nothing too crazy.  The whole thing took about 4 hours.  I read way too many reviews.    So many people complained about the red dirt and how it stained so I was all worried about ruining my clothes but it really wasn't that bad at all.   I brought my old set of tennis shoes that I didn't care about and they turned red but not as bad as people made it seem. Unless you fell down and rolled around in the dirt none of it gets on your clothes.  I like all this adventure stuff but I'm kind of a girly girl.  I think I was more worried about my clothes then flying through the air on a metal wire.


As we went along the lines got longer and longer and I wasn't afraid anymore.  If you start to twist then you turn your wrist into the direction that you are twisting to straighten up.  My first landing was a little rough but after that I learned to keep my feet in front of my body and got better.   It was so much fun!  I just had to trust those guys that they knew what they were doing when they hooked me up and it was fine.  There was always one person to send you off and another person at the other end to slow you down and catch you.  They were very reassuring.  The views were spectacular.  I really tried to look around and take in everything in on each zip.  They told everyone that we had to jump off backwards at the second to last zip.  We didn't really HAVE to but everyone did.  Our guide said we really lucked out on the weather too.  It was clear but with just enough cloud cover so that the sun wasn't blazing down on us the whole time.


After that we shared a meal at a place in the same strip mall.  We stopped at our favorite grocery store again to get something light to eat for dinner.  I realized that we had been there every single day sometimes twice in a day since our arrival.  There was still time for the pool and it was happy hour so we changed, ordered drinks and spent a few hours there.  That night we tried to watch a movie but fell asleep on it.

We really needed our sleep that night because the next day we were going to Hana.  And the road to Hana starts ridiculoulsy early.

The Road to Hana

Maui Wowie

Day one of a vacation is so full of promise and adventure.  We had finally arrived after so much anticipation and exhausting travel with all the days of our glorious vacation ahead of us to look forward to.  It felt great.  It felt like we were going to be there forever.  I had this moment where I wondered what the heck are we going to do for the next 8 days.  It's a beach vacation so we wouldn't be running around sight seeing all day like we did in Europe last year.  But before long, the days were full and going way too fast.

This vacation was all about taking it easy.  The Hawaii lifestyle suits me.
  • We only planned out 3 activities for the week.
  • We didn't stay out late.  Our nights actually weren't too different from being at home.  We ate dinner while watching a movie and then we went to bed.  We watched TV in bed before we fell asleep and that was cool because we don't have a TV in our bedroom at home.  The main difference is that our full time day job was being beach bums.  
  • I  never felt tired and I loved that.  I was full of energy all day every day from the minute I woke up until I crashed at night after each sun drenched day.
  • See those clothes in the closet?  I hardly wore any of them.  I spent 80% of my time in a bikini and wore flip flops every day.  I wore less then half of the clothes I brought.  Maui is so casual and the air so warm that "getting dressed" is something I cared about even less then I do at home.  I can't believe I didn't remember that from Oahu two years ago.
  • I brought a plethora of hair products and hardly used any of it.  What the hell do I need with a curling iron in Maui when I'm spending every day at the beach?  I don't even know what I was thinking.  The diffuser however, was awesome.  I had never used one before so I bought one for the trip to test it out.  It was easy to use.  I loved how fast it dried my hair and gave me some nice waves.     
  • I didn't wear a stitch of make up the entire time.  There were moments when I thought about how much better my pictures would look if I did.  Oh well.  Screw it.  I'm not a big make up person even at home but I'll usually at least throw on some blush and eye liner.  Maui is stunning, naturally beautiful and the air is positively balmy.  That kind of background makes you feel beautiful.  I let my hair go wild and I felt all glowy from the inside out.  It felt really good being my all natural self.  Putting on make up would have just felt wrong. Plus it's just too warm. 
  • This vacation was not at all about culinary experiences.  It was more about getting to the beach.  We only went out to dinner at a restaurant once.  We ate Subway twice and Pizza three times.  After spending all day on the beach snacking and drinking all I wanted to do was shower and relax some more.  Light and simple dinners at home were ideal.
He's on the couch watching football.  I'm unpacking.

Our home away from home

Sunday morning we had a really early flight and got to Maui in the afternoon.  We got a rental for the week because the airport is 45 minutes from the hotel and we figured by the time we payed for round trip shuttle service and one day to rent a car we might as well just get it for the week.  The first thing I did was unpack.  When I arrive I unpack and when I come home I unpack immediately.  That's just how I am.  The first thing Mj did was turn on the TV.  It was football Sunday after all.   We stayed at  Ka'anapali Beach Club in Lahaina on the West side of Maui in a one bedroom timeshare condo with an ocean view and a gigantic bathroom with two sinks.  The hotel was gorgeous.  We had a grocery store and a strip mall with a Subway conveniently located across the street, a beach in our backyard and a perfect breakfast spot within walking distance.  We went and had Pizza and Mai Tai's at the restaurant downstairs.  It's really expensive but they have happy hour from 3-6pm.  I'm not too picky about Pizza but the crust was super hard so it wasn't that good.  It started raining as we were finishing up but in Maui the rain never lasts for long.  We walked to the grocery store in the strip mall across the street to buy snacks and water. 

The next two days were very similar.  Breakfast, grocery store, beach, relax at home.

Monday morning was kind of gloomy so we didn't mind going to an hour long orientation at 10am.  It was in this freezing room, where they ran out of muffins and tried to sell us expensive tours.  At least they had enough coffee.  After sitting through that entire thing we didn't buy a tour or win a door prize but we earned a breakfast buffet voucher.  We saw Slappy Cakes on the way in so we walked there for breakfast and fell in love with the place.  I love the name.  How can you not love a place where your art project becomes your breakfast?  We made all kinds of pancake shapes then stuffed our faces with them.  By the time we went to the beach the sun was out in full force.



Tuesday we used our breakfast buffet voucher which was a really good value because it would have cost us $16.00 each.  There was plenty of seating by the pool but no prime spots near the beach so Mj rented a two seater cabana for $40.00.  I objected like I always do anytime he tries to spend what I consider to be extra unnecessary money but as usual I ended up being really glad he's not as cheap as me.  We had shade and it was so comfortable.  It was like our own little private cocoon and a really nice way to enjoy the beach.  We stared at that view all day long.  It never got old.  The water felt cold when you put your feet in at first but once you got in it was like bathwater.  There are a lot of rocks on that beach.  You can see them through the water.  We realized later there are areas that don't so we stuck to those parts.  Both days were spent lazing about the beach reading, drinking and eating snacks.  You could hop from the pool to the beach and some days we did both but the beach had a better view so we spent most of our days there.
Snorkeling
Mj got his gear from Snorkel Bob's across the street because it was cheaper.  He saw a 4 foot turtle out there.  The water was really clear and he floated above it and watched it eating from the bottom of the ocean.  So cool!!  I wish I could have seen it but at the same time I'm glad I didn't because I'm scared of fish and any and all sea creatures.


The i Pad Mini was perfect.  I read a whole book and tons of magazines.

We never left the beach until after sunset.   They are so beautiful there.   People come out of the wood works to watch and take pictures.  We weren't that hungry for big dinners after all that incessant snacking so Monday we ate meat, cheese and grapes with more wine from the grocery store and on Tuesday we ate Subway.  

Wednesday would be our first planned outing.

Zip-lining in Maui

Eighty-Three to Sixty-Three

When we stepped off that tiny commuter plane at 8 something in the morning it was so cold outside I could see my breath.  I slept for most of the plane ride but sitting up sleep is almost as good as no sleep at all.  I was so exhausted I was starting to feel sick. When we got home the thermostat in our house said 53.  Everything I touched was cold.  Even the carpets were cold and I could feel the chill of it right through my socks.  I always unpack the minute I get home no matter how tired I am.  I pulled stuff out of my suitcases fighting the urge to crumple into a heap on the floor.   I was too tired to eat, so after a long hot shower I went straight to bed.  I woke up three hours later feeling like a semi functional human being.  I've eaten, but I can already feel myself crashing again.  My husband is some kind of machine.  He's STILL up with no sleep, no food and just got back from the grocery store.  I don't know how he does it.

For eight magnificent days I spent more time in a bikini then not and our only agenda was fun in the sun.  We went from 83 degrees to 63 degrees and just like that your vacation is over.  Let the post vacation blues begin.  The good news is that Christmas Break is right around the corner and we are already planning our next vacation.  And it could be worse.  I could be coming home to arctic Alaska or the icy Midwest.  We had a bet going to see who could go the longest without turning on the heat.  My toes were going numb and my fingers were ice cold.   I was extremely close to breaking but he beat me to it on our first day back.  Now he owes me lunch.

It's so weird how real life marches on even when you step out of it for a while.  Work was a distant memory but I knew my co workers were still plugging away.  People were getting iced in and San Diego was hit by a cold front but all I felt was warm sand between my toes and the balmy ocean breeze.  Christmas trees went up while we were swimming in waterfalls. Bloggers churned out posts day after day.  So many posts!  I hit mark all as read while my blog sat silent.  I'm sure page views dropped but I was too busy with not being busy to care.  Social media never stops and Twitter is just too overwhelming.  I couldn't bring myself to look at that one unless I happened to see a notification.  I browsed Instagram, Facebook, posted some pics/tweets and read a few blogs here and there but felt really detached from it all in a really good way.  It felt selfish not replying to comments and not commenting on other blogs especially around Thanksgiving but making my flight and being on vacation was my priority.  Living life not attending to it is what I wanted and needed.


Our vacation was perfect.  We had our own little tropical island bubble of bliss.  I was there and we were in it together.  I have the tan lines, mosquito bites and about 500 pictures to prove it.  As I sit here bundled up in my flannel jammies and granny robe it almost seams surreal.   Our house is here just as we left it and back to work starts tomorrow.  I'm not ready! While we were away vacation eating and relaxing with our upturned faces smiling into the sun real life was waiting to snatch us back.

Time to hang up the bikini.  I hope my real life clothes still fit.

A Different Kind of Thanksgiving

I have never in my entire life been to a restaurant for Thanksgiving dinner.  I always had this idea that restaurants on holidays were for sad lonely people without family and no where to go.

My parents went to San Francisco to see my little sister. My older sister moved back to N. Carolina. The friend that invites everybody over for everything moved too.  Mj and I were on our own this year so we made dinner reservations.  The people there didn't look too sad and lonely and we weren't either.  We had each other.


I was actually pretty excited about it.  I've always wanted to see what it was like.  Dinner would be at 4:30pm and Thanksgiving would not be an all day affair of grazing on foods and drinking wine.  Not that I don't enjoy that.  I enjoy it way too much.  That's the problem.  I overeat when there is food staring me in the face all day long.  We showed up, got seated and then went off to have our fill of the Thanksgiving buffet.  We each got one glass of champagne that came with dinner.   We went back for seconds and dessert, enjoyed a good meal and were on our way home by 6pm for more relaxing.  It was perfect.  The only mishap had to do with Yams.  Amidst the throngs of people lined up in the food area someone dropped yams and I happened to be right there.  I noticed the sticky globs on my Tom's wedge booties when I got home.  I LOVE these shoes so that kind of sucked but my cleaning solution took care of it.  I don't even like yams.

If I had to pick one way every year forever it would be to spend Thanksgiving with family.  It's what I've always done and I'm very grateful for that.  It didn't work out that way this year but it was nice to do something different.  I didn't hate it. 

I'm not into Black Friday at all.  I've never done it. I'm not trying to get up at the crack of dawn to spend money I shouldn't be spending on things I don't need on my precious day off.  MAYBE and that's a big maybe, if there was something specific I wanted. Instead, we did something we haven't done in a long long time.  We cuddled up in bed until about 11:00am dozing off and chatting.  It was way better then Black Friday as far as I'm concerned.   I'm not shopping right now so I did my best to ignore all the 50% online sales.  I did however score a free digital issue of Self and Allure magazine for my my i pad.  It's something.

The only thing I did that day was a mani/pedi.  With a name like this I was expected to be handed a glass of champagne when I walked in.   Nobody else had cocktails but maybe they didn't want one.  I picked out my color, sat down and waited for someone to come take my order.   Turns out there were no cocktails to be had.  But can you really blame me for thinking otherwise? That name is totally misleading.

I've been checking Maui weather obsessively.  Things can be really iffy in December with rain but it's looking good for us so far and I'm hoping it stays that way.

The packing started on Thursday and didn't end until Saturday.  It makes me sad to see the sheer volume of stuff I need when I go on vacation.  I have one small suitcase dedicated to hair products, toiletries and shoes.  I'm a chronic over packer.  My packing anxiety has improved a lot.  It kind of had to with all the traveling I've been doing or else I'd drive myself crazy.  Mj checked on my round trip ticket that wasn't.  I used frequent flyer miles to pay for my trip there.  Mj used his points to pay for my return flight; or so we thought.  Apparently the price went up before the booking was confirmed so they cancelled my return flight without us even realizing it and didn't even give him his points back.  Crisis averted.  I got the very last seat available for the return flight so it looks like I won't be stuck in Maui.  Although, when I think about it I kind of wish I was.  I mean, Maui!!!  I'm not ever going to want to come home.